Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has acknowledged the Indian roots of its latest sandals, which were recently showcased at Milan Fashion Week and sparked a debate in India.
The sandals, featuring an open-toe braided design similar to traditional Kolhapuri sandals from Maharashtra and Karnataka, were described by Prada as “leather footwear” without mentioning their Indian origins. This led to criticism and accusations of cultural appropriation in India.
In response to the backlash, Prada stated to the BBC that they recognize the inspiration for the sandals comes from traditional Indian footwear.
A spokesperson for Prada also emphasized the company’s appreciation for craftsmanship, heritage, and design traditions, and stated that they are in communication with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture, a prominent trade body in the state, regarding this matter.
Last week, the chamber’s chief wrote to Prada expressing concern that the design was commercialized without giving credit to the artisans who have preserved its heritage for generations.
Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of Corporate Social Responsibility, responded to the letter stating that the design was still in its early stages and that the company is open to engaging in meaningful dialogue with local Indian artisans. Follow-up meetings will be organized to further discuss this issue.
Kolhapuri sandals, named after a city in Maharashtra where they are traditionally made, have a history dating back to the 12th century. These handcrafted sandals, made from leather and often dyed with natural colors, are durable and well-suited for India’s hot climate. They were awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019, which recognizes and protects products that originate from a specific region or place.
Following the controversy, many artisans in Kolhapur expressed disappointment that Prada used their design without giving proper credit. Prabha Satpute, a Kolhapuri artisan, told BBC Marathi, “These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Don’t take advantage of others’ labor.”
In India, these sandals are sold for a few hundred rupees, but Prada’s reported premium pricing has caused anger. However, the brand’s website does not mention the price. Other sandals sold by the fashion house retail for £600 to £1,000 in the UK.
Industrialist Harsh Goenka pointed out this price difference, stating that local artisans barely make any money for the same hand-made products. He said, “They lose, while global brands cash in on our culture.”
This is not the first time that global brands have been accused of appropriating Indian traditional products without acknowledging their roots. At the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, Gucci referred to a sari worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a gown, causing backlash. In May, a popular TikTok trend was criticized for calling a dupatta, a traditional South Asian scarf, a Scandinavian scarf.
In Kolhapur, however, some have expressed a sense of pride in their work being recognized by a global brand. Dileep More, a businessman based in Kolhapur, told Reuters, “Artisans are happy that someone is recognizing their work.”
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